- Q & A
Q & A
Common questions and answers regarding our corbels/brackets
Q: Can a bracket be flipped over to use the top plate as the mounting plate?
A: Some customers will ask if a bracket can be flipped over to use the top plate as the back plate instead. They need to understand that it won’t be as strong if this is done. They also need to know that not all designs will allow this, due to the way the design looks. For example, the Willow design won’t work if you flip it over, it just wouldn’t look right. The Grant is an example of one that would work. We will have to add 3 holes to the top plate for this to work in order to install properly. So that will be an additional charge of $10 per bracket if done.
Q: Can you make a design in a different size?
A: The answer is no 95% of the time. The reason is because we stock all of the parts in bulk, so for us to offer any other sizes other than what we already offer, it isn’t practical. Sometimes a customer will want for us to add a couple of inches to a top plate, that’s ok to do, though it’ll typically add $10 per bracket to do so. Please call ahead to verify possible design changes.
Q: Do we offer private label products?
A: If purchased in bulk, we will consider designing and fabricating private labeled products.
Q: How do I measure for proper corbel sizing?
A: When measuring for the use of iron corbels, you’ll need to be concerned with the depth, height and width. The depth is the horizontal part of the bracket that will actually support your counter, shelf or mantle. The height isn’t that important, as long as you have room for it to be installed, but the width is what gives the corbel its substantial look from the front. So if you want a heavier look, start with the 2” width corbels and go up from there.
Q: Does my granite counter top have to be supported?
A: If you have a counter top hangover of more than 8”, then we recommend that you do have some sort of support.
Q: If I do have a hangover of more than 8”, how many corbels will be needed in order to sufficiently support my counter top?
A: We recommend using a support bracket every 40”, but if your counter top is 48” wide, two brackets should work just fine. The deeper the hangover, the more we stress the 40” rule.
Q: How do I determine what depth is needed for support?
A: We recommend that you leave no more than 4” of hangover on your countertop. It generally looks better to try and get your corbel depth within 1”-2” of the end of the counter. So if you have a 12” hangover on your counter, try to go with a 10” deep corbel if you can, but know that a 7.5” deep corbel will work as well.
Q: I’m worried that my legs will hit the brackets while I’m sitting on the barstool, what should I do?
A: Remember, when your stools are pulled away and you’re seated, you shouldn’t have any problems hitting the brackets with your knees, unless you have barstools that twist from side to side. It all depends on how deep your overhang is and how far your stools will be situated from each corbel.
Q: Can I install these corbels on my own, what’s required if I do decide to do it myself?
A: Please refer to the installation portion of the site for information. Or give us a call and we’ll guide you.
Q: If I order the brackets unfinished, how do I finish them myself? What are my options?
A: Please refer to the finishes portion of the website for more information
Q: If I’m going to have a 6’ long x 16” deep slab of granite as an entry table, how many corbels should I use and how should they be supported.
A: It’s common for businesses and some homes to use this type of application. It would be very beneficial to place the corbels where studs are in the wall. Studs typically run every 16” and if they fall in line with where you want your table to go, then you’re good to go for support. If they don’t, you’re still ok, just make sure you use large toggle bolts and at least 3 corbels. You can get away with two corbels if you hit studs, but we recommend using an under mount angle plate for support no matter what. Refer to the install portion of the site for more info. Also note, our linear shelf brackets would be a great solution for this type of application.
Q: If I want to use the corbels outside, how will they weather?
A: Our powder coated finishes do very well outside; if our brackets are installed under a counter, they will last for many years to come.
Q: What is the benefit of wrought iron vs. wood?
A: Not only is iron stronger than wood, but it allows for patterns that are hardly practical with wood designs. Iron also compliments wood; it provides a beautiful contrast to an otherwise plain setting.
Q: Can I replace my wood corbels with wrought or cast iron corbels?
A: Of course you can, just make sure you try and go back with at least the same width corbel as used before. It’ll be easier to not have to refinish where it once was. If the area you’re putting your corbel on is painted, then you shouldn’t have any problems at all.
Q: How strong are these corbels? How much weight can they support?
A: With proper installation, typically around 150lbs each. Our corbels/brackets are made of steel, we use a ¼” back plate and decorative scroll designs that are heavier than any other bracket on the market. So when it comes to mantles, countertops, shelving or anything else in your home that you want to support, it won’t be the bracket that you need to worry about, it’ll be the way they’re installed that you should be concerned with. Proper installation is the key, it’s imperative that the installer take the right steps to ensure structural stability within the wall or whatever surface you’re mounting to. Call if you’re concerned and we’ll guide you.
Q: What would be the difference in design and strength, between the single scroll design vs. the double scroll? For example the Camden 15A vs. the 15A1
A:There are 3 explanations for the different designs. 1) The 15A1 is easier for us to make, so therefore it’s more affordable for you. 2) It's just a strong as the other design; the reason we have a 15A is because some people like a little heavier looking bracket. 3) If you look closely, you'll notice that we have one 3/8" thick laser cut design on the 15A1, now if you compare it to the 15A, you'll see that it has two 3/8" thick laser cut designs. For the 15A, we take two designs and weld them together to get that heavier look. Both brackets are very functional, they are just as strong and just as easy to install. It's really just a personal preference.
Common questions about our vanity bases
Q: Do you keep any vanities in stock?
A: Yes, we do have some vanities in stock, typically without finish, that way we can finish them right before they are shipped. Call or email for availability.
Q: What are standard ship times for vanities?
A: Visit our terms and conditions and look under “estimated ship times”
Q: How do the vanities ship?
A: Typically we ship them via freight; small vanities may go through UPS. They don’t usually ship on a pallet; we have custom boxes made in order to fit them nice and tight. If two or more vanities are purchased, we may put them together on a pallet in order to save money and for ease of handling.
Q: What are the vanities made out of?
A: They are all made from steel or hand forged iron. Many of our designs are laser cut out of either 1/8” or ¼” plate. If sheet metal is chosen, we use 20 gauge material. Refer to the description under each individual vanity for further information.
Q: Do you offer custom designs?
A: We have our stock designs in order to offer our customers the very best price. Custom designs can be available for clients wishing to have that one of a kind vanity. Depending on the complexity of the design and whether or not CAD drawings will have to be made, will dictate much of the price. Small custom changes can be made for a minimal charge. Shortening the legs will typically not require an up-charge. Custom sales will be final and will be required to pay half down upon ordering. Call or email for a quote.
Q: Are custom finishes offered?
A: As of right now, we do not offer custom finishes. If a person wishes to have a custom finish, we recommend that they order their vanity unfinished so that they can have a custom painter finish the base for them.
Q: Do you offer tops for your vanity bases?
A: As of right now, we do not. Being that our vanities are a higher-end product, our customers typically like to choose their own countertop. We recommend that you look up local countertop fabricators in your town or city. Commonly used tops are… Granite, Quartz, Quartzite, Marble, Concrete, Wood, Glass etc…
Q: Are shelves offered?
A: They haven’t become a standard offering yet, but yes we can offer shelves for an up-charge. This will be considered a custom order, custom order terms apply.
Q: Are back legs offered?
A: They haven’t become a standard offering yet, but yes we can offer back legs for an up-charge. This will be considered a custom order, custom order terms apply.
Q: Do I need to make sure and hit studs while I’m installing my vanity?
A: We don’t think it’s imperative to hit studs, it always helps, but by not doing so, the vanity will still be just fine. If you don’t hit studs, you must use toggle bolts on all offered screw holes in order to secure it to the wall. If you purchase one of our vanities that does not have legs, we recommend at least grabbing a stud with the top screw holes that are offered.
Q: How should I secure the countertop to the vanity base?
A: This is quite simple, we recommend using a little liquid nails or silicon between the top strap and the counter. We also recommend that you bond the backsplash to the wall and to the counter. A countertop fabricator will most likely already know this, so you shouldn’t have to worry about it.
Q: If I choose not to have the sheet-metal backing, how much of the underside of the sink will I see?
A: This really depends on the type of sink chosen; most sinks are decorative underneath, so it shouldn’t be a problem. If an under-mount sink is chosen and it isn’t attractive to look at, you’ll want to choose the sheet-metal backing as an option. If you choose a sink bowl that will go on top of the counter, then sheet-metal isn’t necessary unless you just like the way that it looks.
Common Questions about our linear shelf brackets
Q: Why are these considered easier to install, compared to individual shelf brackets?
A: Say you need to install 4 – 2” thick wood shelves that are 8’ long in your office. You want them to be spaced 14” apart, that way you can have plenty of room for pictures, large books etc… If you purchase individual brackets, you’ll need at least 4 for each shelf, so that means that you’ll have to install 16 brackets individually and make sure that each of them is level and secure into the wall. By using our linear brackets, you only need to install 8 sets of two, stacking them on top of each other for one clean look. With the hole placement being centered, you have a better chance of hitting a stud if one is available.
Q: Are these brackets stronger compared to individual brackets?
A: If you’re not able to hit a stud with your brackets, then yes, these brackets will be stronger when trying to hang shelving. By spacing the toggle bolts out, you’re distributing the weight more effectively. On top of that, instead of the weight on the shelf trying to pull the shelf bracket out from the wall, the weight is being distributed in a way that it pulls down instead, which is a good thing.
Q: Can you install these onto uneven stacked stone?
A: Yes, but it’s a somewhat difficult application, refer to the installation tips as a guide.
Q: What are common applications where these brackets would be beneficial over individual shelf brackets?
A: Basically any application that calls for two or more rows of shelving.
Living room or study shelves needing to hold books, pictures etc…
Restaurant or bar shelves needing to hold liquor
Open shelf applications in kitchens
Dining room shelving above credenza’s
Outdoor wall shelves that would hold potted plants and other accessories
Garage shelf applications
Home décor and accessory shops needing to display small items for sale
Style shops needing to display hair products for sale
Common questions about our iron support legs
Q: Should these be installed prior to countertop installation?
A: Yes, we recommend that you do install them before your counters get put in. That’s not to say that it isn’t ok to do so after the fact. The reason for installation before is so that the countertop fabricator can level their top to fit the brackets and cabinet height.
Q: Should I consult with my cabinet maker before I decide to purchase these legs?
A: Yes you should, they will need to know the size of the mounting brackets that will screw into the cabinet. That way they can allow for it before cabinet construction.
Q: What if I have an existing kitchen island that just has corbels and I would like to replace them with these legs, is that possible?
A: Yes, but you’ll need to ensure that you’ll have enough space for the mount brackets to screw to on your island. See the cad drawings of our mount brackets in order to determine size needed.
Q: I have an application that requires a long piece of granite or manmade stone. My dimensions are going to be 20” deep x 15’ long. Can I use these legs instead of corbels and if so, how many will I need for it to be well supported?
A: Yes you can, you’ll need to ensure that you hit a stud as much as possible, with as many legs as possible. You’ll most likely space them to hit every other stud, with the end legs installed 3” or so in from the edge of the top. If you can’t hit studs, please refer to the installation tips for guidance.
Q: Do these legs offer better support over corbels?
A: Yes, but it only matters for certain applications. The reason they’re stronger, is due to the ability to transfer the countertop weight all the way to the floor. If you just have a standard countertop hangover on an island or stub wall, corbels are perfectly fine for support. The only time you should be concerned with weight issues, is if you have a free hanging counter on a wall, much like a shelf. That is when these legs would benefit you over corbels or other types of brackets.
Q: Do I need to secure the leg on top, underneath the counter?
A: Yes it would help, but you only need to do so with liquid nails or some sort of high strength silicone.